Golden Gai bar hopping Shinjuku

The Golden Gai is one of the most unusual corners of Tokyo: a labyrinth of six narrow alleys behind Kabukicho that houses almost 200 tiny bars, each with capacity for five or eight people at most. Since the 1950s, this district has been a refuge for writers, artists, filmmakers and night owls seeking intimate conversation and affordable drinks far from the big nightclubs. Each bar has its own character: some are rock, others jazz, others classic Japanese cinema. The biggest obstacle for the tourist is the entry charge, which in most venues ranges between 500 and 1.500 ¥ per person and includes a small snack. With the charge plus two or three drinks, spend between 2.000 and 5.000 ¥ per bar. Many venues have signs in English indicating whether tourists are welcome. Bring cash, arrive between 20:00 and 21:00 and do not photograph other customers without permission. The best time is on a weekday for a more authentic experience.