Yumoto Onsen (high-mountain hot springs in the National Park)
Nikko's highest and most remote mountain onsen, at 1.480 metres, surrounded by forests and wetlands; day bathing 800-1.200 ¥.
Yumoto Onsen is the most remote and highest hot-spring resort in the Nikko area, set at 1.480 metres altitude at the western edge of Nikko National Park, 30 minutes by bus beyond Lake Chuzenji. Its waters are sulphurous and slightly milky, at 75 degrees at the source and 42-44 degrees in the baths. The village of Yumoto is tiny — barely a dozen traditional inns and a small alpine lake, the Yuno-ko — but the setting is wildly beautiful: in summer the surrounding Senjogahara wetlands are covered in cottongrass and yellow irises; in autumn the landscape is a tapestry of red maples and golden beeches. Day-use bathing (higaeri nyuyo) without an overnight stay is available at several of the village's ryokan, priced between 800 and 1.200 ¥. The Yumoto Onsen Yamashiro is the most popular spot for day bathing, with four thermal pools at different temperatures. The Senjogahara trail down to Lake Chuzenji covers 8 kilometres of easy hiking with abundant wildlife.